Whaling Was A Dangerous Occupation

In the late 1800's European whale hunters came to the Arctic (eastern) in search for the oil which was extracted from the whale blubber. The Eastern Arctic was a virtual gold mine for whale hunting. These waters teemed with many varieties of these large animals and were close to the European market where whale oil was in great demand and drew high prices.

While I worked in the Eastern regions of Nunavut I had a home base in Qikiqtarjuaq (Broughton Island) and had the good fortune to travel extensively throughout the Baffin Region. On one such trip , travelling by snow machine I hugged the Eastern coast of Baffin Island and travelled due north towards Clyde River. It was clear and cold (-35) when we left and a breeze made it feel much colder. The ice was rough and we had a hard time making any time as we had to find ways around or through pressure ridges.

We made 60 miles and decided to make a night camp and start early the next day. My Inuit friend suggested we stay at a cove not far away so we headed in to make camp. Half igloos were constructed in minutes and white tents set up. Two primer stoves made the tent comfortable and we set to have our meal of seal,shot on the way here and some dry char which I provided. Camp being set I toured the area on foot and came upon a abandoned whaling camp.

Everything stays the same in the high Arctic as it really is a frozen desert and the atmosphere preserves the objects left there. Oil boiling pots and sheds, barrels and tools used in the trade were scattered everywhere. There was something else that caught my eye. A grave yard with 16 crosses made their impression on me for there on the white cross was the name Will Brown from Dundee ,Scotland. He could have been a relative of mine.

I had a pic taken and my mind imagined the cause of his death. Too often the men perished when they fell overboard as your life would be taken in 7 minutes in the cold waters of the Arctic. Perhaps he was sick or fell to the dreaded scurvy. Whatever the cause he died and was buried there in this desolate place only to be seen by the wildlife and occasional Inuit family passing through.

We stayed that night and I was awakened by the howling of a lonesome wolf. The call was returned and soon there was a concert of howls so lonely and foreboding I could not sleep. I got up and walked to that grave yard and listened to the north calling me as it has ever since. I was back where I belonged but not for much longer as my time up there would come to a an end,too soon.

Life in the Arctic is cold, cruel, demanding and dangerous but the rewards for having lived some time there is so rewarding that my wish would be that everyone seek a time in the last frontier. When I was a child a teacher told me that you should, see Naples and die. My answer to this is see the Arctic and live.