Baking Bread

When I lived in the Arctic I made all my own bread products except when I ran out of needed supplies. Bread was $8 a loaf and rye bread was $12 so it was economical to have a bread maker. I had plenty of time on my hands and used it to experiment with various products that you could make with the help of your bread maker.

Since coming back down here and leaving up there I have really not been too active in making bread. Last week I had the urge to get back making home made buns I realized that I did not have the bread maker any more so I looked up Fanny Farmer's recipe and found it to be almost exactly like the one Mom used when I was a child.

I made a batch but using the new modern fast rising yeast caused me to have a little trouble so I adjusted the recipe and I hope all goes well. The new batch is in the oven as I speak and if all goes well we will have them for supper today. Today seemed like a baking day as Theresa was baking as well.

Cambridge Bay Disappointment

On July 23rd,1996 I Received a phone call from Yellowknife.. It  was from an obviously distraught person who booked in fifteen bird watchers from Europe.The problem was that the person who was in charge was in Yellowknife and the group were already in Cambridge Bay. He asked if I knew anyone who could help out until he arrived the next day.

Most of the people were professional photographers from Germany and a few from Japan. I told him it would cost him but I would help. I always feared about situations like this. Because it would tarnish the image of our hamlet and all of Nunavut. I went to the Arctic Inn and met with the group. Some were already gone on their own but the majority were still there.

I explained the situation and told them I was a resident and knew the whereabouts of the birds that lived in the area. The group seemed to be satisfied and after a quick survey of their needs I found that all the group were looking for a Orange Throated Loon., Mute Swan and a Falcon . All these birds were found near or on Pelly Mountain. This mountain was really an esker about 800 feet high and accessible by a bus I hired.

The bus driver apologized for the condition of the bus as it had not been used for months. They all piled in and away we went. I tried to talk over the noise of the bus which had no muffler and I pointed out some points of interest.Muskoxen were in evidence and all the people suddenly wanted to take their picture. Some of the people had cameras that were huge and had to be supported by tripods.

I warned them about staying well out of their way as they could be nasty if they feel threatened or their young get close to them. Some listened some did not. After about an hour I motioned them back to the bus and they managed to get moving again in what seemed like hours.We travelled the road to Pelly Mountain and we parked the bus and set out walking. Most were unhappy with the idea of walking the mile or so to the mountain top[ so decides to explore any number of small and large lakes in the immediate area.

We decided to use the time discovering what makes the tundra so spectacular. The summer flowers, the variety of birds and small and large animals abound and everyone became excited at the viewing of a family of caribou. Three thirty was the time when everyone was to back at the bus and most were.However three were not and we found out that they got lost on the wrong side of a lake and had a long painful trek back. We bumped and grinded our way back to the Inn and all I could hear was how wonderful the countryside was. I did my part and was ready for the tour guide next morning. He came under the heavy hand of a disgruntled bunch and paid the price. For me I wanted cash for the bus driver and a top notch visit for his clients.

He was useless but got through the few days when the community gave a short demonstration of local drum dancing and throat singing. We withdrew his permits for future visits as a tour guide and apologized to the clients who thanked me for helping them to have a good photo shoot.

Arctic Christmas Tree

During the years I lived in the High Arctic I was amazed at the creativity of the Inuit when it came to Christmas trees. In recent years the artificial tree has become an institution but in years gone by the people made do with what they had.

My best memory of a special Christmas tree was in 1999. This was the year when Nunavut was just about prepared to celebrate it's status as a Territory of Canada. An area the size of one fifth of Canada's land and a population of less than 25 thousand people scattered in twenty six hamlets seemed like a impossible task to make a workable union.

That year at Xmas there were exciting things happening for the people and in our hamlet the decision was to have a hamlet tree like they do down south. A local airline, Adler Air surprised everyone by bringing in some real spruce trees. The children were seeing a real tree for the first time and felt and smelt the spruce trees.

One tree in particular was picked for the hamlet tree and it was placed in the community hall. Children and adults were invited to bring a decoration to place on the tree. The Hamlet Council declared a Hamlet Feast and it seemed like the whole population came to the hall for traditional food and to see this huge tree.

As the people came they placed the decorations on the tree. Nearly all were made by the people and within a half an hour the tree was so covered with decorations there was little room for even one more. The lights were not put on until the official time when an elder prayed and made a toast to our first Hamlet Tree for Nunavut. The lights were lit and everyone clapped and shouted and rejoiced in the fact that they had their own territory and the beginning a a new tradition. It was a beautiful tree and after the Xmas season was over the elders packed away all the decorations to be kept for the next year.

A local teacher led the community in Christmas Carols sung in the Inuit language. It sounded so beautiful with true spirit of community coming forward through song. I shall never forget that  special day back in Akaluktutiak, Nunavut.

Thinking Back

My memories of my time shared in the High Arctic have become pictures of special events hidden in the recesses of my mind. This time of the year up there was very new to me as the sun was forgetting to appear and with 24 hour darkness I had to make some adjustments. I never had those bad mental and physical effects that many experience when moving to the North.

I was determined to carry on and with my dog Buck we continued to travel to my fish and hunt camp on Grainier Lake. Travelling to and from the camp was a challenge but when the moon was bright it added a whole different atmosphere and I loved the solitude with the beauty of the white landscape and moon shadows.

Every once in a while Buck and I would encounter caribou or muskoxen and we would just sit and watch them silently disappear into the whiteness of the landscape. One time an Arctic  owl swooped down and nearly took my helmet off as it attacked me several times. I must have invaded her space.

In town the Inuit pretty well hunkered down but people managed to complete their work and find time for ice fishing for fresh Arctic Char and lake trout. The air temperature was averaging minus thirty below zero but with the wind it was way colder than that. I received great advice from my Inuit friends when they helped me purchase clothing to withstand the cold temperatures and specially the wind. I never really felt cols on a regular basis and when I travelled over land for a distance I took special precautions.

All my clothes were similar to or the same as the Inuit. They were very costly but you must protect yourself. The danger of freezing was very real and for the first weeks I froze my eyes, hands and feet. Facial freezing was a regular danger and after a few months I rarely suffered any problems.

On the first of December the Hamlet had a big party in the rec center with live music, good food and beer.Everyone took part. In the afternoon the young people had their dance, food and soft drinks. Even the very young had a great time and when the day ended many were so tired that they fell asleep and parents carried them to their snow machines to get them home.

The night party for the adults gave some of the talented Inuit an opportunity to sing and jig and just have a good time. Since beer was served there was a limit of six over the evening. This was a colourful night with the women dressed in bright colours and a beautiful array of Inuit clothing showing plenty of fur and excellent sewing skills. As the evening ended the people drifted to their homes where the party carried on with the addition of home brew and music.

I loved the customs and traditions of the Inuit and I regret the bad influences of the outside world which eventually will partly destroy a people who survived 10,000 years as an independent people.

Early July In The High Arctic

Early July in the high Arctic is a wonder to behold. First there is the return of the first Snow Birds who arrive to freezing cold and sit outside the homes of the Inuit. They eat what they find and endure the chilling winds and cold nights. Suddenly there is a change in the air. The North West Passage shows Leeds where there once were cracks in the ice. Next the blanket of white which covered the entire north shows black tips of rocks peeping out of the white. There is a warmer wind and rivers which were dormant for the winter begin to trickle under the ice. Spring and summer is approaching.

People who were settled in there homes during the long winter begin to emerge and take in the cool sun. The airline pilots who fly in to the north tell of huge herds of caribou moving to the north shore of the mainland and are staging to cross to the islands for the summer. The water melts near the shorelines of the lakes and the ocean moves with creaks and groans. The ice moves and opens up Leeds and soon open stretches of water appear.

Birds from the south come in droves. Snow geese and Canada geese sit on the cold ice waiting for the signal to return to their ancestral homes. Swans  come by the thousand and stay in a flock until one day as with a instinct fly away in pairs to distant lakes to have their chicks. Smaller birds come through but do not stop long as they are anxious to get to their space as the summer is measured in weeks not months.

People emerge from their winter habitat and crowd the shorelines and jig for the Arctic Char. The Char come from the lakes in numbers and feed on the abundant food for 6 to 8 weeks and retreat to the lakes for the winter. Excitement is everywhere and Inuit use this short summer to stock up on caribou and char to hold them over the long cold winter.

Summer here is so compacted that a day is like a week. Through the snow, finally comes the first flowers and they come in every colour in abundance. Their life cycle might only be a few weeks but for that time they really make a great show.

I loved the spring and short summer and one of the joys I realized was visiting the Inuit as they retreated to the land for the summer. Really all the Inuit moved from their hamlet homes to a preferred tent on the tundra and welcomed visitors with tea and pilot biscuits and jam with conversation about the fish and caribou. Always they were happy just to relive their past when they lived a free life on the Tundra.

Yes the spring and summer was beautiful and I loved it but with the warming of the Arctic new challenges will be presented to the Inuit but I have no doubt they will prevail and live and flourish on the Northern Tundra as they have for 10,000 years.

Omingmak Frolics

This weekend in Ikaluktutiak (Cambridge Bay ) there is a celebration like no other. This week welcomes the first vestiges of spring. The people of this small hamlet celebrate with special events during the whole week but this weekend there are special entertainment events and dancing where the whole hamlet can say goodbye to winter.

By our standards this is not true as the hamlet is still  in the grip of winter as the lakes, rivers and North West Passage are still frozen hard. This enables the locals to have their ice events. Ice fishing, dog pulling contests and snow machine races all take place on Cambridge Bay.

Indoors there are traditional Inuit games for all and young and old either take part or watch. Shouts of encouragement call out from the stands when outstanding performances are made. Jigging to the tune of the fiddle brings out many contestants. Here again old and young perform all dressed in native attire. In between the dancing there are throat singers and drum dancers from the area. This Frolic brings people in from all over Nunavut.

On the ice, bannock baking, sculpturing, and games, continue without stop. Country food is provided and muskoxen and caribou burgers are cooked outdoors at no cost to the public. Raw seal meat and caribou are provided for the elders and anyone brave enough to try. While I lived up there I participated in all events and learned the value of the Inuit diet.

Special church services are held in Inuit and English and are well attended. The music provided by the Inuit choir is both unique and beautiful The week long celebration ends when all the people plan to leave. Many come by snow machine from nearby hamlets and have a two day return over the ice. The rest come by air and the airport is crowded with the visitors and the locals wishing their guests a safe return and an invitation to come back next year to the wonderful Omingmak Frolics in Ikaluktutiak.

My Favourite Arctic Animals

While living in the high Arctic I discovered pure joy in my relation with the animals. When I arrived in Akaluktutiak to be interviewed it was in February and the temperature was near 50 below zero. The only wildlife in the hamlet were the numerous dogs. I found out however that the land was actually full of wildlife.During the week I shared with the people there I was given an opportunity to look around and was provided with a snow-machine to get about.

On my first excursion I headed out of town to see Mount Pelly. It looked about a couple of miles away but actually it was about15 miles distance from the Hamlet. I followed a well travelled trail and encountered numerous Arctic hares. Large for a rabbit and stood nearly three feet when standing ion it's hind legs.

About a mile out I encountered some Peary Caribou and this was the first time I ever saw these smaller Caribou native to this area and becoming endangered due to heavy hunting. They were not too afraid so I watched them for a while.

Next came the biggest surprise, the snowy owl. This year was one which produced many lemmings so there were many owls. I got within a few feet of the owl before it flew off. I discovered it was eating a lemming. On my first day out on the tundra I saw four of natures creatures and it made my day.I did not photograph these animals as I had no working camera because of the cold.

My week ended and I returned home with the great enthusiasm of returning and getting the opportunity of actually seeing and photographing the Arctic animals like the muskoxen and polar bear.

September 22,1995

It was a old day in Ikaluktutiak ,Nunavut that day when I decided to do a little exploring. The ground was hard and cold. The rivers and lakes were frozen but the elders told me to be careful and watch for black ice. I never had my snow machine prepared so decided to use my ATV to travel to my fishing and hunting camp site some 11 miles out of town. The weather looked alright but at this time of year changes very quickly. I just acquired my new travelling partner Buck who was a half wolf and half malamute dog. Large by dog standards and wary of me as his new owner but prepared to take a chance and ride on the back of my ATV.

I made sure I had extra gas but only planning to be gone for a couple of hours broke my own rule by not taking my emergency kit. This kit contained everything you needed to survive 10 days on the tundra. The kit in my case was kept in a waterproof box and was quite large. Normally it sat on the wooden extra seat on my ATV but with Buck coming I took it off and took Buck instead. I was properly dressed for the occasion and started up my machine and as I lived on the north edge of the hamlet was soon out on the tundra.

The road I was following was hilly and slippery so I travelled at a reasonable speed.The occasional snowdrift  was crashed and snow would fly in all directions. I was enjoying this outing and began to speed in reckless abandon. I stopped here and there just to take in the scenery. Days were getting shorter and the sun was well below the horizon and before long it was pitch dark. I arrived at my campsite and let Buck run for a while as I tidied up around the campsite. Lumber had to be sorted and stacked for the winter. The door and windows which I had covered with a tarp were now exposed to the elements so I really had more to do than expected. A rule in the Arctic is to work but do not break a sweat. This is dangerous as exposure to the elements when sweating can lower your core temperature quickly.

I tried to be careful but in my anxious moments to get everything done I became overheated and then felt the cold creep into my bones. I stopped work and immediately lit a fire. I had loads of wood and a few boards with a tarp gave me shelter from the wind which seemed to pick up. I called for Buck being anxious to get home but there was no response. Since I had a sense of fear I talked to myself and admonished myself saying I would never fall into this situation again.

I warmed up but no Buck so I prepared for a longer stay. Snow began to fall so I covered my ATV with a tarp and hoped it would start when called upon. I had a store of military meals and began to eat but there was a certain uneasiness about the situation. I got up and started the ATV and called again for Buck. If necessary I would leave him as he would find his way home. Further fear crept in when the wind began to cause the snow to blow . Now I was worried so I sped off towards the hamlet. We had a very bright beacon in town as there was a Lauren tower there. The road became part of the landscape and I never knew if I was on the road or not.

The snow deepened and I was having difficulty with steering but I only hoped the machine would keep running. After what seemed like an hour I passed by the graveyard and the hamlet lights came into view. As I drove into my yard there was Buck chewing on a muskoxen bone and quite unconcerned. For me I had a life lesson, not really that bad but up there a small situation can be fatal. I vowed to be more careful and this was one rule I kept for the whole time I lived in that wonderful but cruel world. My diary entry that night was circled in red and I read it often as a reminder to be prepared every time you left the safety of your hamlet.

Protecting The Arctic Or Plundering??

I have been hearing a great deal about our desire to protect the environment of the fragile Arctic lands. Because of climate change and global warming the possibility of economic development of resources is now on the table. Our government spent a summer complete with photo ops of our recent concern for the Far North. Yes there are huge natural resources to be found or developed in that area which makes up to 30% of our geographic foot print.

Now that the North West Passage is available for several months of the year, economic benefits are available. Huge or vast reserves of oil and gas  can be found in the waters surrounding Nunavut. Hungry eyes and greedy oil companies see the money to be made and our government is awakening to the fact that pressure will be made to make these resources available.

The time to act to protect these Canadian benefits was years ago but that being said we still have time. The first thing that should be done to keep the faith is to protect the people who have lived there for 10,000 years and give them the same right to a life with clean drinking water and a health plan that meets Canadian standards. Education and training for the local populations must be a priority for the new found jobs  or they will be left behind once more. These people know how to live in that harsh climate and is the greatest natural resource for that country in the future.

Legislation must be put in place to protect the fragile environment. Oil will be the great gift but the most dangerous element in the north where ice covers the water and land for many months of the year. There are three things that must be done to make sure we do not have a tragedy like the one suffered in the Gulf of Mexico.

Every well to be bored over water must have a relief bore hole at the same time as the producing bore hole. The relief bore hole would be made so as to be made operational within one day of a blowout. Next there has to be a cleanup plan to be completed before freeze up. What a tragedy if this was not done. Look to Russian problems caused by not doing this very thing. The third one is to make sure the permitting system protects and demands that every possible environmental condition can be verified and inspected on a regular basis. Recent cutbacks just recently withdrew the water quality inspectors leaving us with a system of self regulation. Crap..we all know the record of international capitalism; it must be regulated with service performance bonds. Oil companies will cry about the costs but they have plenty of money and make huge profits.

The tar sands have been developed before regulations have been put in place and regardless of what the oil company add say they are not sufficient. Less than 2% of the water used by these oil companies is returned into the water system in proper condition. The are trying but in many cases it is too late. Go to Fort McMurray and witness the mess. This can be avoided if we take care of business now.

The True North Strong and Free is part of our national anthem and should   be part of our commitment to that part of Canada which has so much promise.

My Arctic Cabin

Sometimes we get a picture in our mind of a special place or a special song that will not go away.For me one of these special things is my Arctic Cabin. While living in the high Arctic I had time on my hands and decided to start a project which would give me pleasure and leave me with a feeling of accomplishment.

There was so much open space on Victoria Island that location for such a project became a problem. I wanted a place to go on the weekends and spare evenings where my dog could run loose and I could fish or hunt to my hearts content. I found such a place about 15 kms north of Ikaluktutiak on a rise on the shores of Grenier Lake. There was water everywhere but this location was a watershed lake/river and carried all the water from the interior to the North West Passage.

Materials were costly in the North so I devised a plan to accumulate wood and plywood from the local dump. For months I attended the dump and recycled timbers and plywood from packing boxes and piled them in my back yard. By winter time I had enough of everything to start my project. Local contractors called me to give me left over roofing materials and insulation in such quantities that I had to build a shed to take care of these valuable resources.

During the first freeze up I began to take these materials to my building site on my kamituk or sled. It did not take long before I had everything in place. I drew up plans for a 24 by 18 foot Arctic cabin. I waited for spring and began to build. Locals told me information vital for a successful build; air tight, well insulated, strong footings with a good small cook stove. I listened and was able to complete the first half by mid summer. I received some help from friends who came to visit me and the rafters for the other half were put in place before they returned home.

My friends had a few laughs over the construction and I wish they had returned to see the complete work. This cabin became my place of solitude. It was here I heard silence, the sound of caribou hoofs from a distance, the rush of muskoxen as they ran over the rocks and the quiet stealth of Arctic wolves tracking their prey.

I had time to sort out my mind and realize who I was and I found all that out on the tundra. There were so many memories stored in my minds eye from the few years up there that I only have to close my eyes to gain a panorama view of the way it was. When I moved from that area and travelled nearly 3000 miles to my next Arctic home I had the intention of repeating history and building a similar retreat there.

It never happened and that was a good thing, because no place I could build would replace my Arctic cabin and what it meant to me. Freedom... from stress and the difficulties I was encountering during those troubled years.

Golfing In the Arctic

Golfing may be the last sport you would expect to be played in the Arctic. I was surprised to find that because of one event, golfing became popular with the Inuit. For years the chief communication with the outside world was through CBC Radio Canada. One man who was the host of a morning radio show was also an advocate for world literacy. He had the idea of having the most northerly golf tournament in the world to support his cause and to raise money by having a golf tournament on the Arctic Ice.

After years of talk and organizing, the first tournament took place in Ikaluktutiak (Cambridge Bay). People came from far and wide to take part. A golf club in Edmonton donated clubs and a barrel of balls and the airlines provided transportation for some of the more notable of the participants. Coloured balls, solid ice fare ways, hula hoops for cups and thirty below temperatures made the game a challenge. Wind chill factor drove the temperature to 60 below.

The course was laid out on Cambridge Bay and nine holes were constructed. The CBC carried the game on radio and everyone up there listened as the game was played. Most Inuit never heard of golf but they were close to their radios to hear the news of the game. Much fun was had and records broken, fingers frozen and hot spiced rum drunk. It was decided on the spot that another game would be played in the future. Of the 25 hamlets in Nunavut and 25 in the NWT nearly every one wanted to host the next game.

This was billed as the most northerly game of golf in the world and attracted many visitors. In our hamlet where it all started a movement was begun to build a summer course. A committee began with plans for a 9 hole course to be built on Inuit land between the village and the airport. There was a DEW line radar base there and with pooled resources a course was laid out. The holes were long over rockey slopes and the greens were made of sand. There was a rake at every hole to leave the green nice and flat after play.

The course was called the "Course of Many Pebbles". On opening day a special gift of over a hundred clubs and many ball was received by the same Edmonton Golf Club. Golf became a factor in the life of many Inuit. Since there is 24 hour sunlight in the summer the game was often played throughout the night. Inuit like to gamble and rarely was there a game played without a little wager. I played a few games there and can claim to have had a 400 yard drive downhill with the golf ball hitting many favourite bounces on the rocks. It was fun.

My friends from Pembroke thought I was joking when I took them to see the golf course but they were believers when they surveyed the rocky slopes for themselves. I don't know if the course is still operating but while I was up there I enjoyed golf above the Arctic Circle.

October 1996

October was a cold month in the Arctic in 1996. I was pretty well used to the cold as I had the very best in cold weather clothing and footwear. I had much on my mind that day as I was expecting a minister of municipal affairs to arrive and give me the green light on a plan for the district. My plan was to put all the resources from the government in the social needs section in one pot and call it a wellness initiative.

I realized that there was plenty of money sent to our community for social issues but it was not utilized in a timely fashion. My idea along with a woman's group was to join together a working group with a full time leader to serve the needy . As it stood some people were being serviced by 3 or 4 different agencies and it was wasteful. As I drove to work that morning it was still dark but I could see a group of kids on bicycles crossing the bay.

It was 35 below zero and I wondered where these kids were going. It did not take too long to find out as there was a terrific explosion a few minutes later. there was a problem in our area with young people sniffing propane gas and even regular gas to get high. In this case four kids had gone to a place where a large packing case became the small space where a propane tank was opened and the kids got high. One young person lit a cigarette and boom.

I was on sight in minutes as well as half the hamlet and discovered two dead , two badly burned and a town in shock. The medic vac took the two youngsters to Yellowknife and on to Edmonton to the burn clinic.

This incident cemented the community in realizing that decisive action had to be taken. That afternoon the minister arrived as well as the press and needless to say our plan for a wellness committee was approved.

A community funeral was held and leaders spoke of the problems facing the new committee and how important it was for everyone to help. I could have picked nearly every person in the hamlet to serve but the community chose seven people. Three elders, the minister , two students (1 boy 1 girl ) and the mayor . The mayor appointed a lady councillor to take his place as he felt he was not ready for this undertaking.

Some times it takes a tragedy to wake people up and in this case it did. The committee hired an outsider to be the wellness director and made a great choice. The two boys who were badly burned eventually recovered and one returned to walk the streets and be a living example of the dangers of sniffing gas and the other never made it back in to society.

My work there took a turn and for the next few years this committee became a model accepted in many hamlets in Nunavut. Incidentally our Minister of Health for Canada was a resident of that hamlet at the time and was influenced as were all to make their communities better, safer and more in tune with the social needs of the Inuit.

Bear Attacks

During the last few weeks there have been an unusually high number of bear attacks on people. As we are invading the territory of the wildlife in general and bear territory in particular, we can expect more of this to take place. People are searching for new adventure and pushing the outer limits of seeking for that special thrill of being only one of a few to penetrate back country. There is a great feeling of being alone in this environment, but with this comes dangers. Wary travellers with knowledge have low risk but casual visitors to these regions are at a very high risk for problems.

I have spent years in the wilderness of the Arctic where weather is the greatest danger - more than bears. There were rules to follow and failing to follow them could cause grave results. While living in Ikaluktutiak, Nunavut I received a call one day on my radio phone from travellers who were in a difficult situation on the Back River, south and more east of us. Eight men in canoes were moving from an inland drop off point and travelling to the coast to be picked up again before returning home.

Their problem was bears; many bears. The Back River is a wonderful river to canoe but there are shallow stretches with rock and sandbars making travel a little challenging. Portaging is necessary and most people decide to walk their canoe through this stretch of the river. The water is cold and swift and footing is very bad. At this place in the river, these men were confronted with a family of barron grizzly bears. These bears were feeding on dead caribou that perished during the migration. There was an abundance of food for these bears and they were not likely to move any time soon.

The solution was to backtrack and try to move around the bear family or try to paddle through and escape down river. These bears are known as mean bears and will attack without warning if bothered or with cubs. Our advice was to back up a safe distance and wait. A Otter twin engine with tundra tires was to be dispatched and safely pick up the travellers. Tundra tires are huge soft tires which make it possible to land on very rough terrain.

The pilot and myself left and, after the hour and a half flight, were at the scene. We could now see eight bears - and more coming - and the men in the canoes about a mile upstream. The pilot chose a landing area which was acceptable and waited for the people to come to the plane. We were able to take all the men, their gear and two of the six canoes, as there was fear of damage on landing or takeoff.

These men had fear and used good sense and made their trip have a happy ending. Less experienced folk would have chanced the walk through the bears with grave results. I knew these men as they were from down south where I used to live. Their trip was shortened by a day but they came to our town and took advantage of resting up and meeting the Inuit from our hamlet.

Around the campfire that night (really day as the sun did not set) they heard firsthand from the Inuit of the encounters with these bears and were thankful for the choice they made. Bears are powerful animals and deserve the respect shown by these safe and not sorry adventurers.

Camping on the NWP (con't)

Long before any sane person would get up I heard the trashing about of some hungry dogs. There were several dogs along for the ride as safeguards for polar bears. These dogs are able to smell bears miles away and bears can smell seals and food twenty miles away if the wind in correct. I poked my nose out of my bedroll and reached for my clothes. It is important to dry out your clothes every night to ensure their safe for wearing. The high Arctic is a desert and very dry. Clothes will dry even at very low temperatures.

The air in my tent was probably below forty and getting the courage to slip into my clothes was an effort. First my caribou pants and then the three layers of army issue sweat shirt and sweater. In a minute I was warm. My final outer wear would wait until after breakfast.

As I emerged from my tent laughter greeted me as everyone was ready to move on. Breakfast was hot oatmeal, beans and caribou and tea. Bannock is a staple and with canned jam and is prepared at every stop. Cooked in a frying pan and loaded with fat it is the perfect food for the north. Two babies we being fed by their mothers and cold did not stop the process. Young kids were given caribou ribs to chew as we travelled. Even at a very young age Inuit children learn to eat country food. Dry meat and fish are favourites of the very young and the very old.
Re-packing our komiticks was done carefully. Everything was patted clean of ice or snow and packed in a way for easy access for the next stop.

Our guide Ikey told us to stay close, meaning within sight for the next while as the ice in this area was subject to currents and open water. He also advised us to check our loads to make sure everything was tied down as we were travelling along the shore and from time to time we would have to mount the banks which we very steep.We lengthened our tow ropes to 60 feet to make sure the komaticks would not run into us when we had to stop or return to the ice. Many people are injured by being hit by their komiticks when stopping.

The snow machine can stop quickly but a loaded komitick weighing 12 to 15 hundred pounds has a great force and no brakes. After a quick check Ikey gave the signal to proceed. He put me up front with him to keep an eye on me. So far I was doing ok but the next hours gave me a real challenge. A light breeze came up and small swirls of snow followed us as we made our way across the ice. At this moment I was in heaven experiencing the adventure of a lifetime.

Moving along at 25 mph over rough ice was shaking my bones and putting a real strain on my arms and legs. I checked my watch and it was 5:30 am and our next scheduled stop was 8:00 am. I wondered how I would feel. Ikey signalled a stop to prepare for a run up the bank to land. It was dark so all I could see was what appeared in my headlight. He told me the bank was 60 feet high with a ridge at the top. Get up to speed, 40 mph and do not stop until you get over the ridge or you will have a problem, a big problem.

Ikey moved off at an ever faster pace and after ten minutes the land tilted upwards. Now I could see the ridge with Ikey on top. I thought I would never make it but with the machine wide open I climbed and gained the ridge. I moved out of the way and one after one came over the top.

One machine choked and never made the ridge. Everyone raced to the rescue and another machine was hooked up and with lots of help they made it. The machine blew a piston so tent was set up quickly and several men began the repair job. Tea was boiled and jovial conversation was made and a certain amount of attention was given and directed towards me. Little English was spoken except when I asked a question or was told something.

We were falling behind schedule so one of the men radioed ahead. The return message said we were heading into a small blizzard and to be careful.One hour later we were on our way full of warm tea. We shortened our ropes while over this land and closed our distance between machines. There was a quick stop and several shots fired and word came to us that two caribou were shot so fresh meat was had for the next break.

My mind wandered as I saw these Inuit so happy and resourceful in their environment. I would never be one of them but I was determined to learn and respect these first nations people and to try to live as close to nature as I could. The many hours we managed to travel was like a dream with my whole world being that space lighted by my one snowmobile light. In the open sections we seemed to be like a long caravan snaking through the snow with the sound of our high pitched motors breaking the otherwise silent landscape.

I had to go to the bathroom but there were no gas stations or even a tree. At the next stop I shall solve the mystery of bathrooms breaks in the Arctic in mixed company. (To be continued )

Integration Ikaluktutiak Style

While living in Akaluktutiak in the high Arctic I was fortunate to choose a path that led me to integrate with the Inuit culture.The real bonus was the friendship I developed with the children who lived nearby on TuTu (caribou) and Okaluk (Arctic Hare) Streets. I first met these children through their parents who worked with me at the Hamlet. One of my favourite young persons was Alice who used to visit frequently with her younger sister Palouk. Alice used to pack her sister in her shirt and had no problem as all young girls were called to perform this task to help their mothers who often had several young ones at the same time.

There were concerns in the community at first as to my intentions as a white man befriending young chilren. To eleviate these concerns I met and socialized with their parents and gained their confidence through time.The process was slow but rewarding as it gave me a sense of family.I would invite the children to my home for dinner and make it a rather formal ritual. We would set the table with all the silverware and even napkins. Full dressed tables were not the norm up there but we followed good manners and proper eating etiquette. The children relished these meals and soon learned to appreciate our dinners. Always we ended with cookies and pop and cleaned up the dishes.

Sometimes I invited the parents but they felt strange with our way but never complained.The favourite white mans food was spaghetti and meatballs. Alice always came to visit packing her sister.Alice lived with her grandmother and mother and there was no visible father in the picture. This was not uncommon as young girls had children and they were looked after by them or their parents.It is not uncommon for girls to give their babies to their brothers or sisters through informal adoptions. I have never heard of an orphan in Nunavut.

One day Alice came to my home and informed me that on my birthday she and the children would supply a special meal. At about six o'clock I heard Buck barking and opened the door to six kids carrying a steaming ten gallon pail and very happy children. They came in out of the cold and dark and took off the many layers of clothing. Since this was a traditinal Inuit meal cardboard was placed on the floor and contents of the pail was emptied on the cardboard. Two steaming caribou heads made up the dinner and the only thing you needed was a knife. Alice took over and became the boss. I was a little hesitant but took my place and prepared to partake of the specialty.

We were seated and Alice took over, "Henry, you like eyes?". Before I could answer the eyes were eaten and so on for an hour where each part of the animal was offered and without a quick response it was devoured by the girls. I did manage the tongue which was delicious and other parts as well. The girls called this a feast and it would not be the last during my stay. Traditional meals are called feasts and are a strong part of the Inuit culture.

The feast ended when not a speck of flesh remained. The girls tried to see who could make the biggest burp and one backfired and made everyone laugh. Since it was my birthday they presented me with a small gadget which was a measuring tape and a pack of needles.We ended the evening with cookies and pop and they informed me that the people in the hamlet called me Elenok which means friend. I was happy.

The lesson I learned from this was you can find happiness anywhere if you open your heart and mind to accept people for what they are, not what you want them to be.

Inexperience Cost Me

On a cold day in Cambridge Bay I had the good idea of going caribou hunting to the east end of Victoria Island. The word from pilots was that the animals were moving near Cochran point. This was a favourite crossing for part of the herd going south for winter. I planned to go with a Inuit friend but he decided to stay home

Buck, my faithful dog was ready for the task. We loaded our kamatik with all the necessities including the extras in case we had a problem and would have to set up camp. I packed two of everything and brought 20 gals of extra gas. I put de-icer in the gas as the temperature was about 40 below and with the wind it hovered around 55 below. This was not unusually cold but on a snow machine travelling at 35 mph it felt a little uncomfortable.

Buck rode in the kamatik and I took the ocean route until it became too rough because of the pressure ridges. I avoided the pernamium off the point and headed inland. Sixty miles had to be travelled before I would reach my hunting area.

Everything was going well and I saw three Arctic hare which excited Buck and I had to wait for him after his futile forage to catch one of these agile rabbits. We continued and the wind came up and visibility became non existent. Local Inuit say that you should stop and wait under these conditions but I was only 15 miles to the cape.

I managed to keep course until suddenly I was thrown from my machine. I hit a large snow covered rock travelling at 15 mph. After I gathered myself I discovered I lost a ski off the snow machine. After examination I realized I was in trouble. My kamatik was overturned and some of my supplies were scattered. I quickly gathered them and repacked them and tried to think.

I knew I should make camp and try to jury some form of ski for the trip home. I also knew I should prepare for the upcoming storm. Buck was worried and sat by the broken ski so I decided to work on a repair plan. With wire, some bolts, rope and wood splints I began to feel a little better. Buck watched the effort and sympathized with me when I blew hot air through my hands to keep warm. Basically I was very worm with my caribou leggings and fur coat and hat. Only my hands were exposed and I was in pain.

Suddenly Buck perked up and gave me that look. He heard the hoof on rock sound of caribou approaching on the run. I grabbed my rifle and loaded it with a new clip and waited. I had to control Buck so I gathered him in to me and told him to be quiet. He was and the animals came even closer. By the sound there was a small family herd of a dozen or so. Suddenly they stopped and began to walk. They passed within thirty feet of us. As they passed they paid little attention to us so I bagged two. Off they ran and the reason was a pack of wolves were following.

This worried me even more as these hungry wolves might think my game was fair game for them. Buck began to bare his teeth and snarl. He was half wolf and had a hate for wolves as he was attacked by them only last year. The caribou disappeared and so did the wolves. The wolves numbering five were hunting and never gave us a look.

Now I had to prepare the animals and pack them in the kamatik. I gave Buck a good feed but he only ate some and buried the rest. Now we were off for the trip home. The jouried ski worked well for a while but after a few miles I had to re do the job. This was the pattern for the next 20 hours. My eagerness to get out on the land made me break one of my cardinal rules . Never go out alone when the weather is bad. This time I was lucky and Buck and I arrived home the next day at seven in the evening.

I was scared for a while and lost for a while but managed to get home because of the strobe lights on the Loran Tower. I shared the fresh meat with friends and elders and made a promise never to repeat that inexperienced decision again. I kept the promise until the next time I didn't.

Arctic Craft Day

The Inuit are known for their ability to sew and carve. Every year the hamlets throughout Nunavut Territory hold a craft day on the last Saturday of November. This day permits the artists and crafty people to display and sell their wares.

Women were judged in past years by her ability to sew. Inuit women guarded their needles as precious objects and were able to provide her family with everything they wore. Outer clothing made out of caribou hides, polar bear pants for the hunters, sealskin boots which were waterproof and mitts which were made of wolf pelts. Their skill was not limited to clothes as they sewed the sealskin hides so tightly that they were used for the skin of the kayaks.

With the need for this skill being lessened with store bought clothes the women turned to making luxury and decorative items. Wolf mitts now cost up to $500 and Mukluk's over that amount.

The young girls make hand made needle work for decorations on the amouts and other clothes. The men not to be outdone carve beautiful pieces of art out of soap stone and bone of the caribou and whale. Ulu's are made from old saw blades. In any case the show is a wonderful place to be on the last Saturday of the month.

In addition to the goods , food is supplied in the traditional way and various sausages and burgers are produced from Muskoxen and caribou. Mipkou (dried meat from Muskoxen and Caribou) and biffy ( dried fish ) are sold.

The doors open at 9am and everything is sold by 10 am. Money exchanges hands and there is no bartering about the price. The value of the items presented are judged by how quickly they are sold so the prices are attractive. Immediately after the last item is sold and it will be the music and people share in the showing of their prized purchases. By the end of the sale some people are very happy but others are disappointed because their offerings were purchased by family to save face.

I purchased many Xmas gifts at these fairs and loved the interaction of the people. Elders with no money roamed around the area and were given items freely in a show of respect. Inuit really believe that that they personally own very little as they feel they are Stewart's of monetary and physical things and should be shared with the ones who are less fortunate.

Years ago it was an honour to have more than you needed so you could share. This practise gave status to the hunters and women who could make more clothing than they needed.

I received a good feeling about the craft fairs and the pride shown for realized skills. This does not occur when you go to a big box store and stare at numerous items all turned out by people from third world countries who are being exploited by our companies.

The Hunt

Morning came with the sound of boiling water and a “good morning” from my friend. He was dressed and ready to go. We ate more bannock and more tea. We stuffed some dried meat in a pack sack and got our gear in order. Field glasses were used but at this time of year days are short and they had limited results. We left our camp hoping no wolves or bears were in the area who wished a meal of our food. The only animals we saw were Arctic hare and foxes. A couple of muskoxen were pawing at the tundra trying to uncover some tender morsels of Arctic Willow for breakfast.

We left camp and approached a rise. Ikey motioned me to get close to the ground as he spotted something. Sure enough there were a dozen caribou walking slowly towards the shoreline. There was a clear pathway tramped down by the numerous hoof prints of passing caribou. Their nostrils belched steam as if they had been chased for a while. I key pointed out the culprit which was a lone Arctic Wolf looking for a meal. We also saw that he was using only three legs. An accident perhaps or a old wound but surely something that separated him from the pack.

I was experiencing the time of my life and the coldness that was pressing on me in my immobile position was a small nuisance. Ikey looked the situation over and decided to let these animals get to the ice and safety. Caribou that have been run have a bitter taste and this was not what we came for. Ikey did claim the wolf with a clean shot. On examination the wolf had been in a trap and would not have been able to survive the winter. The animal was skinned in minutes and he showed me how and why it was done that way. He also showed me the proper way to fold the hide to keep its value at the auction.

We travelled slowly in land to a flat area which appeared to be covered by thousands of caribou but actually I counted about a hundred. Eight herds of female caribou with a dominant male were moving in our direction. We dismounted our ATV and moved to a spot behind some large rocks and waited. I had 6 tags and of course Ikey did not need tags. We planned to wait until the animals were passing and to avoid shooting the dominant herd leader.

It was over in minutes and I had 4 and Ikey 7 prime animals. My next lesson was cleaning and skinning the animals. I had experience with deer and moose but caribou were so easy. We had a clean patch of snow on which to take care of the meat. We kept everything - hearts, liver and Ikey used more. We quartered the animals and wrapped them in the hides. This meat would be shared with the elders and other needy people in the hamlet.

We went back to get our sleds and when we returned the foxes were already having a feast of the leftovers. The spiritual bird of the Inuit, the raven was in numbers as well. Nothing was lost or wasted. This was the way of the Inuit for centuries and I was privileged to take part. I repeated this harvest every year I was in the Arctic.

When we began to gather the animals, Ikey stopped me until he took snow and put it in his mouth, and then in the mouth of the nearest caribou. He said thanks to the spirits for the food they had provided to his family; very spiritual and meaningful in the context of the moment. He repeated this with each of the animals. He invited me to do the same for my bounty and I did, but the spirituality was not there at that time. As other occasions befell me I became more in tune with nature and the opportunity to experience the circle of life up there in the High Arctic.

We stayed overnight and cooked the hearts and liver - at least some of them - and talked of the hunt, how good life was, and our thoughts of sharing the meat and the stories of the Caribou Hunt. I am ever grateful for the time and experiences I had up there and with my friend Ikey.

The Race To The Crossing

Friday seemed to have 48 hours as work dragged on and Ikey and I looked at the clock. Since I was the boss I had to show a good example about keeping proper hours. This was a real problem up there during hunting and fishing season. At 2.30 pm I motioned to Ikey to leave and I left one of the girls in charge of the phone. We raced home and changed and prepared to meet at the road to the airport. I never realized how cold it was with the 30 km wind.I gave Buck enough muskoxen bones for three days and left with Buck jumping against the chain as he wanted to come.

The wind picked up as I met Ikey at the arranged place and with few words he said we were going to the crossing. This was a favourite hunting place as it was the jumping off point for the caribou heading to the mainland across the North West Passage. It was 60+ miles away and we planned to travel on the new ice. Winds that swept through our area during the ice freezing time caused large pressure ridges to form. Few of these ridges could be crossed and detours were required to make progress.

Without another word Ikey sped off and I tried to follow. He quickly left me in snow dust and I had a fear that I would never be able to keep up. He had skills way beyond mine and pulling a kamatuk with with over a 1000lbs was difficult and dangerous. I was getting the hang of it when I saw Ikey stopped ahead. I pulled up and learned a lesson I never forgot. Never, never step off your snow machine until your sled is stopped. The momentum of the sled carried it past my snow machine when I stopped because it does not have brakes. Many people suffered broken from this lack of knowledge.

After Ikey gave me a stern warning he advised me that we were going inland as progress was too slow on the ice. Some bare stony land had to be traversed and he told me to keep going at all cost because if you stopped on bare ground the snow machine could not pull the sled. Stopping was to be made on a downward slope on snow. I followed again with the increased tension of another challenge. We made progress and the sparks literally flew when we crossed a stoney section about a half mile long.

After what seemed like forever we stopped at a rise in the land and prepared to set up camp. Actually it took nearly 5 hours to travel that distance which I covered in the summer by atv in 3 hrs.

Making camp in the Arctic was a skill developed over centuries by the Inuit. Ikey gave short orders and our White tent was up. Snow was packed on the windward side and a tarp was thrown over the tent. First rule was to work but not sweat. Sweating can cause severe chills when you stop and could have more serious repercussions. The primer stove was set up first and snow thawed for tea. Meanwhile the hides were placed on the floor and sleeping bags unfolded to warm up.Snow machines covered and sleds secured next to the tent for easy retrieval of supplies. It took 30 minutes to make camp.

Our guns were taken inside and cleaned again making sure the barrel was plugged with a wick to stop any buildup of ice or snow. Can goods are useless in the arctic as they freeze.Only can jam is used and our diet was mipku (dried meat and bannock and tea). We talked for a while and Ikey started up his short wave radio to talk to some other hunters to get info on the location of the caribou. He spoke in Inuinaktun, a dialect used by the local Inuit, and as he spoke I knew he had good news and I also he told his friend he had a white novice with him and he laughed with his friends about this matter.

Ikey actually gave me my Inuit name which was elenok meaning friend. We talked for a bit and all of a sudden I heard him snore. He was asleep. A big day ahead.

Caribou Hunting

I understand that many people do not like hunting in any form or for any reason. I was always interested in hunting and when I lived up there, I was introduced to a vital part of Inuit culture and economic necessity, the caribou harvest. My friend and work partner Ikey was a true Inuit and lived off the land to provide important sources of their diet.

Ikey was special as he was known for his skills as a hunter and fisherman and as a conservationist. Word had it that he never shot at an animal and left it wounded and would track other animals that were wounded by others to stop needless suffering. He invited me to go with him on one of his last harvesting days as the caribou had moved through our area and only stragglers were left.

I prepared as you must for a Friday to Sunday night outing on the land. As the temperatures were in the -20 and -30 you had to have everything in order. My snow machine was checked and my travelling sled was packed in a special order. Tents and hides were placed on the front of the sled and my supplies and cooking gear was tied down in a large box at the back. My sled box was a rough box used for burying which was discarded and exactly fitted the sled. Two primer stoves, a lantern, cooking pots and of course ingredients for making bannock, a staple on the land. A can of jam and pilot biscuits were for dessert with tea. Everyone there drinks pots of tea.

I used two rifles, one a 3.06 with 125 grain shells did the trick for small game like caribou. The second was a 303 which was for protection in case a bear could not be scared off. A supply of ammo and the work clothes rounded out the supplies. I chose caribou pants and jacket sometimes but the Hudson Bay parka was also good. Wolf mitts and sealskin boots completed the attire.

Twenty gallons of gas for the snow machine and five gallons of white gas for the stove and lantern; three tarps to cover the sled and snow machine, and an extra for the tent if no good snow was found for a half igloo. I was ready. Excitement was not the word as I went to sleep on Thursday eve, the day before the beginning of the hunt.