Camping on the NWP (con't)

Long before any sane person would get up I heard the trashing about of some hungry dogs. There were several dogs along for the ride as safeguards for polar bears. These dogs are able to smell bears miles away and bears can smell seals and food twenty miles away if the wind in correct. I poked my nose out of my bedroll and reached for my clothes. It is important to dry out your clothes every night to ensure their safe for wearing. The high Arctic is a desert and very dry. Clothes will dry even at very low temperatures.

The air in my tent was probably below forty and getting the courage to slip into my clothes was an effort. First my caribou pants and then the three layers of army issue sweat shirt and sweater. In a minute I was warm. My final outer wear would wait until after breakfast.

As I emerged from my tent laughter greeted me as everyone was ready to move on. Breakfast was hot oatmeal, beans and caribou and tea. Bannock is a staple and with canned jam and is prepared at every stop. Cooked in a frying pan and loaded with fat it is the perfect food for the north. Two babies we being fed by their mothers and cold did not stop the process. Young kids were given caribou ribs to chew as we travelled. Even at a very young age Inuit children learn to eat country food. Dry meat and fish are favourites of the very young and the very old.
Re-packing our komiticks was done carefully. Everything was patted clean of ice or snow and packed in a way for easy access for the next stop.

Our guide Ikey told us to stay close, meaning within sight for the next while as the ice in this area was subject to currents and open water. He also advised us to check our loads to make sure everything was tied down as we were travelling along the shore and from time to time we would have to mount the banks which we very steep.We lengthened our tow ropes to 60 feet to make sure the komaticks would not run into us when we had to stop or return to the ice. Many people are injured by being hit by their komiticks when stopping.

The snow machine can stop quickly but a loaded komitick weighing 12 to 15 hundred pounds has a great force and no brakes. After a quick check Ikey gave the signal to proceed. He put me up front with him to keep an eye on me. So far I was doing ok but the next hours gave me a real challenge. A light breeze came up and small swirls of snow followed us as we made our way across the ice. At this moment I was in heaven experiencing the adventure of a lifetime.

Moving along at 25 mph over rough ice was shaking my bones and putting a real strain on my arms and legs. I checked my watch and it was 5:30 am and our next scheduled stop was 8:00 am. I wondered how I would feel. Ikey signalled a stop to prepare for a run up the bank to land. It was dark so all I could see was what appeared in my headlight. He told me the bank was 60 feet high with a ridge at the top. Get up to speed, 40 mph and do not stop until you get over the ridge or you will have a problem, a big problem.

Ikey moved off at an ever faster pace and after ten minutes the land tilted upwards. Now I could see the ridge with Ikey on top. I thought I would never make it but with the machine wide open I climbed and gained the ridge. I moved out of the way and one after one came over the top.

One machine choked and never made the ridge. Everyone raced to the rescue and another machine was hooked up and with lots of help they made it. The machine blew a piston so tent was set up quickly and several men began the repair job. Tea was boiled and jovial conversation was made and a certain amount of attention was given and directed towards me. Little English was spoken except when I asked a question or was told something.

We were falling behind schedule so one of the men radioed ahead. The return message said we were heading into a small blizzard and to be careful.One hour later we were on our way full of warm tea. We shortened our ropes while over this land and closed our distance between machines. There was a quick stop and several shots fired and word came to us that two caribou were shot so fresh meat was had for the next break.

My mind wandered as I saw these Inuit so happy and resourceful in their environment. I would never be one of them but I was determined to learn and respect these first nations people and to try to live as close to nature as I could. The many hours we managed to travel was like a dream with my whole world being that space lighted by my one snowmobile light. In the open sections we seemed to be like a long caravan snaking through the snow with the sound of our high pitched motors breaking the otherwise silent landscape.

I had to go to the bathroom but there were no gas stations or even a tree. At the next stop I shall solve the mystery of bathrooms breaks in the Arctic in mixed company. (To be continued )