Cambridge Bay Disappointment

On July 23rd,1996 I Received a phone call from Yellowknife.. It  was from an obviously distraught person who booked in fifteen bird watchers from Europe.The problem was that the person who was in charge was in Yellowknife and the group were already in Cambridge Bay. He asked if I knew anyone who could help out until he arrived the next day.

Most of the people were professional photographers from Germany and a few from Japan. I told him it would cost him but I would help. I always feared about situations like this. Because it would tarnish the image of our hamlet and all of Nunavut. I went to the Arctic Inn and met with the group. Some were already gone on their own but the majority were still there.

I explained the situation and told them I was a resident and knew the whereabouts of the birds that lived in the area. The group seemed to be satisfied and after a quick survey of their needs I found that all the group were looking for a Orange Throated Loon., Mute Swan and a Falcon . All these birds were found near or on Pelly Mountain. This mountain was really an esker about 800 feet high and accessible by a bus I hired.

The bus driver apologized for the condition of the bus as it had not been used for months. They all piled in and away we went. I tried to talk over the noise of the bus which had no muffler and I pointed out some points of interest.Muskoxen were in evidence and all the people suddenly wanted to take their picture. Some of the people had cameras that were huge and had to be supported by tripods.

I warned them about staying well out of their way as they could be nasty if they feel threatened or their young get close to them. Some listened some did not. After about an hour I motioned them back to the bus and they managed to get moving again in what seemed like hours.We travelled the road to Pelly Mountain and we parked the bus and set out walking. Most were unhappy with the idea of walking the mile or so to the mountain top[ so decides to explore any number of small and large lakes in the immediate area.

We decided to use the time discovering what makes the tundra so spectacular. The summer flowers, the variety of birds and small and large animals abound and everyone became excited at the viewing of a family of caribou. Three thirty was the time when everyone was to back at the bus and most were.However three were not and we found out that they got lost on the wrong side of a lake and had a long painful trek back. We bumped and grinded our way back to the Inn and all I could hear was how wonderful the countryside was. I did my part and was ready for the tour guide next morning. He came under the heavy hand of a disgruntled bunch and paid the price. For me I wanted cash for the bus driver and a top notch visit for his clients.

He was useless but got through the few days when the community gave a short demonstration of local drum dancing and throat singing. We withdrew his permits for future visits as a tour guide and apologized to the clients who thanked me for helping them to have a good photo shoot.

Arctic Christmas Tree

During the years I lived in the High Arctic I was amazed at the creativity of the Inuit when it came to Christmas trees. In recent years the artificial tree has become an institution but in years gone by the people made do with what they had.

My best memory of a special Christmas tree was in 1999. This was the year when Nunavut was just about prepared to celebrate it's status as a Territory of Canada. An area the size of one fifth of Canada's land and a population of less than 25 thousand people scattered in twenty six hamlets seemed like a impossible task to make a workable union.

That year at Xmas there were exciting things happening for the people and in our hamlet the decision was to have a hamlet tree like they do down south. A local airline, Adler Air surprised everyone by bringing in some real spruce trees. The children were seeing a real tree for the first time and felt and smelt the spruce trees.

One tree in particular was picked for the hamlet tree and it was placed in the community hall. Children and adults were invited to bring a decoration to place on the tree. The Hamlet Council declared a Hamlet Feast and it seemed like the whole population came to the hall for traditional food and to see this huge tree.

As the people came they placed the decorations on the tree. Nearly all were made by the people and within a half an hour the tree was so covered with decorations there was little room for even one more. The lights were not put on until the official time when an elder prayed and made a toast to our first Hamlet Tree for Nunavut. The lights were lit and everyone clapped and shouted and rejoiced in the fact that they had their own territory and the beginning a a new tradition. It was a beautiful tree and after the Xmas season was over the elders packed away all the decorations to be kept for the next year.

A local teacher led the community in Christmas Carols sung in the Inuit language. It sounded so beautiful with true spirit of community coming forward through song. I shall never forget that  special day back in Akaluktutiak, Nunavut.

Thinking Back

My memories of my time shared in the High Arctic have become pictures of special events hidden in the recesses of my mind. This time of the year up there was very new to me as the sun was forgetting to appear and with 24 hour darkness I had to make some adjustments. I never had those bad mental and physical effects that many experience when moving to the North.

I was determined to carry on and with my dog Buck we continued to travel to my fish and hunt camp on Grainier Lake. Travelling to and from the camp was a challenge but when the moon was bright it added a whole different atmosphere and I loved the solitude with the beauty of the white landscape and moon shadows.

Every once in a while Buck and I would encounter caribou or muskoxen and we would just sit and watch them silently disappear into the whiteness of the landscape. One time an Arctic  owl swooped down and nearly took my helmet off as it attacked me several times. I must have invaded her space.

In town the Inuit pretty well hunkered down but people managed to complete their work and find time for ice fishing for fresh Arctic Char and lake trout. The air temperature was averaging minus thirty below zero but with the wind it was way colder than that. I received great advice from my Inuit friends when they helped me purchase clothing to withstand the cold temperatures and specially the wind. I never really felt cols on a regular basis and when I travelled over land for a distance I took special precautions.

All my clothes were similar to or the same as the Inuit. They were very costly but you must protect yourself. The danger of freezing was very real and for the first weeks I froze my eyes, hands and feet. Facial freezing was a regular danger and after a few months I rarely suffered any problems.

On the first of December the Hamlet had a big party in the rec center with live music, good food and beer.Everyone took part. In the afternoon the young people had their dance, food and soft drinks. Even the very young had a great time and when the day ended many were so tired that they fell asleep and parents carried them to their snow machines to get them home.

The night party for the adults gave some of the talented Inuit an opportunity to sing and jig and just have a good time. Since beer was served there was a limit of six over the evening. This was a colourful night with the women dressed in bright colours and a beautiful array of Inuit clothing showing plenty of fur and excellent sewing skills. As the evening ended the people drifted to their homes where the party carried on with the addition of home brew and music.

I loved the customs and traditions of the Inuit and I regret the bad influences of the outside world which eventually will partly destroy a people who survived 10,000 years as an independent people.

Early July In The High Arctic

Early July in the high Arctic is a wonder to behold. First there is the return of the first Snow Birds who arrive to freezing cold and sit outside the homes of the Inuit. They eat what they find and endure the chilling winds and cold nights. Suddenly there is a change in the air. The North West Passage shows Leeds where there once were cracks in the ice. Next the blanket of white which covered the entire north shows black tips of rocks peeping out of the white. There is a warmer wind and rivers which were dormant for the winter begin to trickle under the ice. Spring and summer is approaching.

People who were settled in there homes during the long winter begin to emerge and take in the cool sun. The airline pilots who fly in to the north tell of huge herds of caribou moving to the north shore of the mainland and are staging to cross to the islands for the summer. The water melts near the shorelines of the lakes and the ocean moves with creaks and groans. The ice moves and opens up Leeds and soon open stretches of water appear.

Birds from the south come in droves. Snow geese and Canada geese sit on the cold ice waiting for the signal to return to their ancestral homes. Swans  come by the thousand and stay in a flock until one day as with a instinct fly away in pairs to distant lakes to have their chicks. Smaller birds come through but do not stop long as they are anxious to get to their space as the summer is measured in weeks not months.

People emerge from their winter habitat and crowd the shorelines and jig for the Arctic Char. The Char come from the lakes in numbers and feed on the abundant food for 6 to 8 weeks and retreat to the lakes for the winter. Excitement is everywhere and Inuit use this short summer to stock up on caribou and char to hold them over the long cold winter.

Summer here is so compacted that a day is like a week. Through the snow, finally comes the first flowers and they come in every colour in abundance. Their life cycle might only be a few weeks but for that time they really make a great show.

I loved the spring and short summer and one of the joys I realized was visiting the Inuit as they retreated to the land for the summer. Really all the Inuit moved from their hamlet homes to a preferred tent on the tundra and welcomed visitors with tea and pilot biscuits and jam with conversation about the fish and caribou. Always they were happy just to relive their past when they lived a free life on the Tundra.

Yes the spring and summer was beautiful and I loved it but with the warming of the Arctic new challenges will be presented to the Inuit but I have no doubt they will prevail and live and flourish on the Northern Tundra as they have for 10,000 years.

Omingmak Frolics

This weekend in Ikaluktutiak (Cambridge Bay ) there is a celebration like no other. This week welcomes the first vestiges of spring. The people of this small hamlet celebrate with special events during the whole week but this weekend there are special entertainment events and dancing where the whole hamlet can say goodbye to winter.

By our standards this is not true as the hamlet is still  in the grip of winter as the lakes, rivers and North West Passage are still frozen hard. This enables the locals to have their ice events. Ice fishing, dog pulling contests and snow machine races all take place on Cambridge Bay.

Indoors there are traditional Inuit games for all and young and old either take part or watch. Shouts of encouragement call out from the stands when outstanding performances are made. Jigging to the tune of the fiddle brings out many contestants. Here again old and young perform all dressed in native attire. In between the dancing there are throat singers and drum dancers from the area. This Frolic brings people in from all over Nunavut.

On the ice, bannock baking, sculpturing, and games, continue without stop. Country food is provided and muskoxen and caribou burgers are cooked outdoors at no cost to the public. Raw seal meat and caribou are provided for the elders and anyone brave enough to try. While I lived up there I participated in all events and learned the value of the Inuit diet.

Special church services are held in Inuit and English and are well attended. The music provided by the Inuit choir is both unique and beautiful The week long celebration ends when all the people plan to leave. Many come by snow machine from nearby hamlets and have a two day return over the ice. The rest come by air and the airport is crowded with the visitors and the locals wishing their guests a safe return and an invitation to come back next year to the wonderful Omingmak Frolics in Ikaluktutiak.

My Arctic Cabin

Sometimes we get a picture in our mind of a special place or a special song that will not go away.For me one of these special things is my Arctic Cabin. While living in the high Arctic I had time on my hands and decided to start a project which would give me pleasure and leave me with a feeling of accomplishment.

There was so much open space on Victoria Island that location for such a project became a problem. I wanted a place to go on the weekends and spare evenings where my dog could run loose and I could fish or hunt to my hearts content. I found such a place about 15 kms north of Ikaluktutiak on a rise on the shores of Grenier Lake. There was water everywhere but this location was a watershed lake/river and carried all the water from the interior to the North West Passage.

Materials were costly in the North so I devised a plan to accumulate wood and plywood from the local dump. For months I attended the dump and recycled timbers and plywood from packing boxes and piled them in my back yard. By winter time I had enough of everything to start my project. Local contractors called me to give me left over roofing materials and insulation in such quantities that I had to build a shed to take care of these valuable resources.

During the first freeze up I began to take these materials to my building site on my kamituk or sled. It did not take long before I had everything in place. I drew up plans for a 24 by 18 foot Arctic cabin. I waited for spring and began to build. Locals told me information vital for a successful build; air tight, well insulated, strong footings with a good small cook stove. I listened and was able to complete the first half by mid summer. I received some help from friends who came to visit me and the rafters for the other half were put in place before they returned home.

My friends had a few laughs over the construction and I wish they had returned to see the complete work. This cabin became my place of solitude. It was here I heard silence, the sound of caribou hoofs from a distance, the rush of muskoxen as they ran over the rocks and the quiet stealth of Arctic wolves tracking their prey.

I had time to sort out my mind and realize who I was and I found all that out on the tundra. There were so many memories stored in my minds eye from the few years up there that I only have to close my eyes to gain a panorama view of the way it was. When I moved from that area and travelled nearly 3000 miles to my next Arctic home I had the intention of repeating history and building a similar retreat there.

It never happened and that was a good thing, because no place I could build would replace my Arctic cabin and what it meant to me. Freedom... from stress and the difficulties I was encountering during those troubled years.

Golfing In the Arctic

Golfing may be the last sport you would expect to be played in the Arctic. I was surprised to find that because of one event, golfing became popular with the Inuit. For years the chief communication with the outside world was through CBC Radio Canada. One man who was the host of a morning radio show was also an advocate for world literacy. He had the idea of having the most northerly golf tournament in the world to support his cause and to raise money by having a golf tournament on the Arctic Ice.

After years of talk and organizing, the first tournament took place in Ikaluktutiak (Cambridge Bay). People came from far and wide to take part. A golf club in Edmonton donated clubs and a barrel of balls and the airlines provided transportation for some of the more notable of the participants. Coloured balls, solid ice fare ways, hula hoops for cups and thirty below temperatures made the game a challenge. Wind chill factor drove the temperature to 60 below.

The course was laid out on Cambridge Bay and nine holes were constructed. The CBC carried the game on radio and everyone up there listened as the game was played. Most Inuit never heard of golf but they were close to their radios to hear the news of the game. Much fun was had and records broken, fingers frozen and hot spiced rum drunk. It was decided on the spot that another game would be played in the future. Of the 25 hamlets in Nunavut and 25 in the NWT nearly every one wanted to host the next game.

This was billed as the most northerly game of golf in the world and attracted many visitors. In our hamlet where it all started a movement was begun to build a summer course. A committee began with plans for a 9 hole course to be built on Inuit land between the village and the airport. There was a DEW line radar base there and with pooled resources a course was laid out. The holes were long over rockey slopes and the greens were made of sand. There was a rake at every hole to leave the green nice and flat after play.

The course was called the "Course of Many Pebbles". On opening day a special gift of over a hundred clubs and many ball was received by the same Edmonton Golf Club. Golf became a factor in the life of many Inuit. Since there is 24 hour sunlight in the summer the game was often played throughout the night. Inuit like to gamble and rarely was there a game played without a little wager. I played a few games there and can claim to have had a 400 yard drive downhill with the golf ball hitting many favourite bounces on the rocks. It was fun.

My friends from Pembroke thought I was joking when I took them to see the golf course but they were believers when they surveyed the rocky slopes for themselves. I don't know if the course is still operating but while I was up there I enjoyed golf above the Arctic Circle.

October 1996

October was a cold month in the Arctic in 1996. I was pretty well used to the cold as I had the very best in cold weather clothing and footwear. I had much on my mind that day as I was expecting a minister of municipal affairs to arrive and give me the green light on a plan for the district. My plan was to put all the resources from the government in the social needs section in one pot and call it a wellness initiative.

I realized that there was plenty of money sent to our community for social issues but it was not utilized in a timely fashion. My idea along with a woman's group was to join together a working group with a full time leader to serve the needy . As it stood some people were being serviced by 3 or 4 different agencies and it was wasteful. As I drove to work that morning it was still dark but I could see a group of kids on bicycles crossing the bay.

It was 35 below zero and I wondered where these kids were going. It did not take too long to find out as there was a terrific explosion a few minutes later. there was a problem in our area with young people sniffing propane gas and even regular gas to get high. In this case four kids had gone to a place where a large packing case became the small space where a propane tank was opened and the kids got high. One young person lit a cigarette and boom.

I was on sight in minutes as well as half the hamlet and discovered two dead , two badly burned and a town in shock. The medic vac took the two youngsters to Yellowknife and on to Edmonton to the burn clinic.

This incident cemented the community in realizing that decisive action had to be taken. That afternoon the minister arrived as well as the press and needless to say our plan for a wellness committee was approved.

A community funeral was held and leaders spoke of the problems facing the new committee and how important it was for everyone to help. I could have picked nearly every person in the hamlet to serve but the community chose seven people. Three elders, the minister , two students (1 boy 1 girl ) and the mayor . The mayor appointed a lady councillor to take his place as he felt he was not ready for this undertaking.

Some times it takes a tragedy to wake people up and in this case it did. The committee hired an outsider to be the wellness director and made a great choice. The two boys who were badly burned eventually recovered and one returned to walk the streets and be a living example of the dangers of sniffing gas and the other never made it back in to society.

My work there took a turn and for the next few years this committee became a model accepted in many hamlets in Nunavut. Incidentally our Minister of Health for Canada was a resident of that hamlet at the time and was influenced as were all to make their communities better, safer and more in tune with the social needs of the Inuit.

Bear Attacks

During the last few weeks there have been an unusually high number of bear attacks on people. As we are invading the territory of the wildlife in general and bear territory in particular, we can expect more of this to take place. People are searching for new adventure and pushing the outer limits of seeking for that special thrill of being only one of a few to penetrate back country. There is a great feeling of being alone in this environment, but with this comes dangers. Wary travellers with knowledge have low risk but casual visitors to these regions are at a very high risk for problems.

I have spent years in the wilderness of the Arctic where weather is the greatest danger - more than bears. There were rules to follow and failing to follow them could cause grave results. While living in Ikaluktutiak, Nunavut I received a call one day on my radio phone from travellers who were in a difficult situation on the Back River, south and more east of us. Eight men in canoes were moving from an inland drop off point and travelling to the coast to be picked up again before returning home.

Their problem was bears; many bears. The Back River is a wonderful river to canoe but there are shallow stretches with rock and sandbars making travel a little challenging. Portaging is necessary and most people decide to walk their canoe through this stretch of the river. The water is cold and swift and footing is very bad. At this place in the river, these men were confronted with a family of barron grizzly bears. These bears were feeding on dead caribou that perished during the migration. There was an abundance of food for these bears and they were not likely to move any time soon.

The solution was to backtrack and try to move around the bear family or try to paddle through and escape down river. These bears are known as mean bears and will attack without warning if bothered or with cubs. Our advice was to back up a safe distance and wait. A Otter twin engine with tundra tires was to be dispatched and safely pick up the travellers. Tundra tires are huge soft tires which make it possible to land on very rough terrain.

The pilot and myself left and, after the hour and a half flight, were at the scene. We could now see eight bears - and more coming - and the men in the canoes about a mile upstream. The pilot chose a landing area which was acceptable and waited for the people to come to the plane. We were able to take all the men, their gear and two of the six canoes, as there was fear of damage on landing or takeoff.

These men had fear and used good sense and made their trip have a happy ending. Less experienced folk would have chanced the walk through the bears with grave results. I knew these men as they were from down south where I used to live. Their trip was shortened by a day but they came to our town and took advantage of resting up and meeting the Inuit from our hamlet.

Around the campfire that night (really day as the sun did not set) they heard firsthand from the Inuit of the encounters with these bears and were thankful for the choice they made. Bears are powerful animals and deserve the respect shown by these safe and not sorry adventurers.

Integration Ikaluktutiak Style

While living in Akaluktutiak in the high Arctic I was fortunate to choose a path that led me to integrate with the Inuit culture.The real bonus was the friendship I developed with the children who lived nearby on TuTu (caribou) and Okaluk (Arctic Hare) Streets. I first met these children through their parents who worked with me at the Hamlet. One of my favourite young persons was Alice who used to visit frequently with her younger sister Palouk. Alice used to pack her sister in her shirt and had no problem as all young girls were called to perform this task to help their mothers who often had several young ones at the same time.

There were concerns in the community at first as to my intentions as a white man befriending young chilren. To eleviate these concerns I met and socialized with their parents and gained their confidence through time.The process was slow but rewarding as it gave me a sense of family.I would invite the children to my home for dinner and make it a rather formal ritual. We would set the table with all the silverware and even napkins. Full dressed tables were not the norm up there but we followed good manners and proper eating etiquette. The children relished these meals and soon learned to appreciate our dinners. Always we ended with cookies and pop and cleaned up the dishes.

Sometimes I invited the parents but they felt strange with our way but never complained.The favourite white mans food was spaghetti and meatballs. Alice always came to visit packing her sister.Alice lived with her grandmother and mother and there was no visible father in the picture. This was not uncommon as young girls had children and they were looked after by them or their parents.It is not uncommon for girls to give their babies to their brothers or sisters through informal adoptions. I have never heard of an orphan in Nunavut.

One day Alice came to my home and informed me that on my birthday she and the children would supply a special meal. At about six o'clock I heard Buck barking and opened the door to six kids carrying a steaming ten gallon pail and very happy children. They came in out of the cold and dark and took off the many layers of clothing. Since this was a traditinal Inuit meal cardboard was placed on the floor and contents of the pail was emptied on the cardboard. Two steaming caribou heads made up the dinner and the only thing you needed was a knife. Alice took over and became the boss. I was a little hesitant but took my place and prepared to partake of the specialty.

We were seated and Alice took over, "Henry, you like eyes?". Before I could answer the eyes were eaten and so on for an hour where each part of the animal was offered and without a quick response it was devoured by the girls. I did manage the tongue which was delicious and other parts as well. The girls called this a feast and it would not be the last during my stay. Traditional meals are called feasts and are a strong part of the Inuit culture.

The feast ended when not a speck of flesh remained. The girls tried to see who could make the biggest burp and one backfired and made everyone laugh. Since it was my birthday they presented me with a small gadget which was a measuring tape and a pack of needles.We ended the evening with cookies and pop and they informed me that the people in the hamlet called me Elenok which means friend. I was happy.

The lesson I learned from this was you can find happiness anywhere if you open your heart and mind to accept people for what they are, not what you want them to be.

Arctic Craft Day

The Inuit are known for their ability to sew and carve. Every year the hamlets throughout Nunavut Territory hold a craft day on the last Saturday of November. This day permits the artists and crafty people to display and sell their wares.

Women were judged in past years by her ability to sew. Inuit women guarded their needles as precious objects and were able to provide her family with everything they wore. Outer clothing made out of caribou hides, polar bear pants for the hunters, sealskin boots which were waterproof and mitts which were made of wolf pelts. Their skill was not limited to clothes as they sewed the sealskin hides so tightly that they were used for the skin of the kayaks.

With the need for this skill being lessened with store bought clothes the women turned to making luxury and decorative items. Wolf mitts now cost up to $500 and Mukluk's over that amount.

The young girls make hand made needle work for decorations on the amouts and other clothes. The men not to be outdone carve beautiful pieces of art out of soap stone and bone of the caribou and whale. Ulu's are made from old saw blades. In any case the show is a wonderful place to be on the last Saturday of the month.

In addition to the goods , food is supplied in the traditional way and various sausages and burgers are produced from Muskoxen and caribou. Mipkou (dried meat from Muskoxen and Caribou) and biffy ( dried fish ) are sold.

The doors open at 9am and everything is sold by 10 am. Money exchanges hands and there is no bartering about the price. The value of the items presented are judged by how quickly they are sold so the prices are attractive. Immediately after the last item is sold and it will be the music and people share in the showing of their prized purchases. By the end of the sale some people are very happy but others are disappointed because their offerings were purchased by family to save face.

I purchased many Xmas gifts at these fairs and loved the interaction of the people. Elders with no money roamed around the area and were given items freely in a show of respect. Inuit really believe that that they personally own very little as they feel they are Stewart's of monetary and physical things and should be shared with the ones who are less fortunate.

Years ago it was an honour to have more than you needed so you could share. This practise gave status to the hunters and women who could make more clothing than they needed.

I received a good feeling about the craft fairs and the pride shown for realized skills. This does not occur when you go to a big box store and stare at numerous items all turned out by people from third world countries who are being exploited by our companies.

The Hunt

Morning came with the sound of boiling water and a “good morning” from my friend. He was dressed and ready to go. We ate more bannock and more tea. We stuffed some dried meat in a pack sack and got our gear in order. Field glasses were used but at this time of year days are short and they had limited results. We left our camp hoping no wolves or bears were in the area who wished a meal of our food. The only animals we saw were Arctic hare and foxes. A couple of muskoxen were pawing at the tundra trying to uncover some tender morsels of Arctic Willow for breakfast.

We left camp and approached a rise. Ikey motioned me to get close to the ground as he spotted something. Sure enough there were a dozen caribou walking slowly towards the shoreline. There was a clear pathway tramped down by the numerous hoof prints of passing caribou. Their nostrils belched steam as if they had been chased for a while. I key pointed out the culprit which was a lone Arctic Wolf looking for a meal. We also saw that he was using only three legs. An accident perhaps or a old wound but surely something that separated him from the pack.

I was experiencing the time of my life and the coldness that was pressing on me in my immobile position was a small nuisance. Ikey looked the situation over and decided to let these animals get to the ice and safety. Caribou that have been run have a bitter taste and this was not what we came for. Ikey did claim the wolf with a clean shot. On examination the wolf had been in a trap and would not have been able to survive the winter. The animal was skinned in minutes and he showed me how and why it was done that way. He also showed me the proper way to fold the hide to keep its value at the auction.

We travelled slowly in land to a flat area which appeared to be covered by thousands of caribou but actually I counted about a hundred. Eight herds of female caribou with a dominant male were moving in our direction. We dismounted our ATV and moved to a spot behind some large rocks and waited. I had 6 tags and of course Ikey did not need tags. We planned to wait until the animals were passing and to avoid shooting the dominant herd leader.

It was over in minutes and I had 4 and Ikey 7 prime animals. My next lesson was cleaning and skinning the animals. I had experience with deer and moose but caribou were so easy. We had a clean patch of snow on which to take care of the meat. We kept everything - hearts, liver and Ikey used more. We quartered the animals and wrapped them in the hides. This meat would be shared with the elders and other needy people in the hamlet.

We went back to get our sleds and when we returned the foxes were already having a feast of the leftovers. The spiritual bird of the Inuit, the raven was in numbers as well. Nothing was lost or wasted. This was the way of the Inuit for centuries and I was privileged to take part. I repeated this harvest every year I was in the Arctic.

When we began to gather the animals, Ikey stopped me until he took snow and put it in his mouth, and then in the mouth of the nearest caribou. He said thanks to the spirits for the food they had provided to his family; very spiritual and meaningful in the context of the moment. He repeated this with each of the animals. He invited me to do the same for my bounty and I did, but the spirituality was not there at that time. As other occasions befell me I became more in tune with nature and the opportunity to experience the circle of life up there in the High Arctic.

We stayed overnight and cooked the hearts and liver - at least some of them - and talked of the hunt, how good life was, and our thoughts of sharing the meat and the stories of the Caribou Hunt. I am ever grateful for the time and experiences I had up there and with my friend Ikey.

The Race To The Crossing

Friday seemed to have 48 hours as work dragged on and Ikey and I looked at the clock. Since I was the boss I had to show a good example about keeping proper hours. This was a real problem up there during hunting and fishing season. At 2.30 pm I motioned to Ikey to leave and I left one of the girls in charge of the phone. We raced home and changed and prepared to meet at the road to the airport. I never realized how cold it was with the 30 km wind.I gave Buck enough muskoxen bones for three days and left with Buck jumping against the chain as he wanted to come.

The wind picked up as I met Ikey at the arranged place and with few words he said we were going to the crossing. This was a favourite hunting place as it was the jumping off point for the caribou heading to the mainland across the North West Passage. It was 60+ miles away and we planned to travel on the new ice. Winds that swept through our area during the ice freezing time caused large pressure ridges to form. Few of these ridges could be crossed and detours were required to make progress.

Without another word Ikey sped off and I tried to follow. He quickly left me in snow dust and I had a fear that I would never be able to keep up. He had skills way beyond mine and pulling a kamatuk with with over a 1000lbs was difficult and dangerous. I was getting the hang of it when I saw Ikey stopped ahead. I pulled up and learned a lesson I never forgot. Never, never step off your snow machine until your sled is stopped. The momentum of the sled carried it past my snow machine when I stopped because it does not have brakes. Many people suffered broken from this lack of knowledge.

After Ikey gave me a stern warning he advised me that we were going inland as progress was too slow on the ice. Some bare stony land had to be traversed and he told me to keep going at all cost because if you stopped on bare ground the snow machine could not pull the sled. Stopping was to be made on a downward slope on snow. I followed again with the increased tension of another challenge. We made progress and the sparks literally flew when we crossed a stoney section about a half mile long.

After what seemed like forever we stopped at a rise in the land and prepared to set up camp. Actually it took nearly 5 hours to travel that distance which I covered in the summer by atv in 3 hrs.

Making camp in the Arctic was a skill developed over centuries by the Inuit. Ikey gave short orders and our White tent was up. Snow was packed on the windward side and a tarp was thrown over the tent. First rule was to work but not sweat. Sweating can cause severe chills when you stop and could have more serious repercussions. The primer stove was set up first and snow thawed for tea. Meanwhile the hides were placed on the floor and sleeping bags unfolded to warm up.Snow machines covered and sleds secured next to the tent for easy retrieval of supplies. It took 30 minutes to make camp.

Our guns were taken inside and cleaned again making sure the barrel was plugged with a wick to stop any buildup of ice or snow. Can goods are useless in the arctic as they freeze.Only can jam is used and our diet was mipku (dried meat and bannock and tea). We talked for a while and Ikey started up his short wave radio to talk to some other hunters to get info on the location of the caribou. He spoke in Inuinaktun, a dialect used by the local Inuit, and as he spoke I knew he had good news and I also he told his friend he had a white novice with him and he laughed with his friends about this matter.

Ikey actually gave me my Inuit name which was elenok meaning friend. We talked for a bit and all of a sudden I heard him snore. He was asleep. A big day ahead.

Loran Tower Ikaluktutiak Nunavut

The Loran Tower was constructed on the east side of Cambridge Bay on a rocky rise. It was built to guide aircraft flying from points in Canada and the USA to Europe on the Arctic pathway. This tower is over 800 feet high and is a free standing structure. The tower was built by the USA and Canadian military and civilian interests.Hundreds of aircraft flew this route weekly.

Nearly every plane travelling that route used this beacon as a guide as magnetic compasses were next to useless in that part of the world. The true north was miles north of the magnetic north pole which has a habit of moving constantly. Presently it is near the south area of Ellesmere Island.

The tower was a main guide for the SAC B52's which flew continuously during the years of the cold war. The tower was strobe lighted and on a clear night could be seen for fifty miles. Once I was partially lost returning from the mainland ,travelling across the NWP (north west passage}. Fog and wind obstructed my ability to get my bearings. I had no compass that day and began to become concerned.

I stopped my snow machine and began a search of the horizon with my spy glass. It was totally dark and after a short search I spotted the strobe lights of the Tower. I arrived home safely 5 hours later. That experience was repeated thousands of times since by the locals.

The tower was taken out of service years later in the 1980's and the local people petitioned the government of Canada to leave the tower and keep it lighted. After much discussion the tower remains but with lighting at a lower level. This provided a beacon for the Inuit hunters and visitors but at a reduced service. A friend of mine did the maintenance on the tower and changed the lights. He free climbed that tower without safety harness and was fearless. We were all afraid and concerned just watching him.

It is amazing how a tower can be the focal point of a community but it was and still is. Many communities have other beacons like lighthouses and church steeples but none are more outstanding the the Loran Tower of Cambridge Bay.

Inukshuk

Inukshuk's are seen everywhere along highways where rock is available. People make these monuments to show that they have been there. In the Arctic there are thousands of Inushuk's placed there for many reasons.

Firstly they were built to show the way for nomad travellers moving across that baron land. In winter one cannot tell or distinguish between land or water. Everything appears the same. These markers peered above the snow showing the way.

These distinctive markers were often built to help in the harvesting the caribou. The markers were made to look like a person so as to guide the herds through a narrow passage so the Inuit hunters could get their winter meat and clothing. Caribou clothing is so warm that few northern travellers were able to withstand the extreme temperatures without it. Personally I used caribou for mittens, pants and hooded coats. I was rarely cold in temperatures sometimes reaching -80 with the wind chill factor.

Inukshuks were used to mark food caches. Hunters would place meat and fish in places and cover them with stones. In the winter months they are retrieved but would never be found if the Inuit did not leave a marker. This type of Inukshuk was usually a straight pile of stones ,one upon another to a height of 5-8 feet.

Good fishing places were sometimes marked with a collection of artistically built structures.

Where semi permanent settlements were present the Inuit marked their homes with cleverly built monuments.

Lynda came to visit me on several occasions and built a Inukshuk on the land behind my cabin overlooking Mount Pelly and Grenier Lake. It was still there years after when I went up there for a visit. Inuit never touch or destroy Inukshuk's as they understand the meaning and the importance of these Arctic landmarks.

Finally these markers were used to mark grave sites. When travelling on the tundra mishaps occured and people who died were buried immediately and their bodies covered with stones. Markers were erected if there was enough time and material available. In winter it is impossible to pick up a stone from the ground as everything id frozen solid.

I have a large Inukshuk in my backyard to keep me thinking about my life up there. It is comforting to look out my bedroom window and see that structure. Lately some chipmunks have made it their home and are often seen sitting on one of the arms of our Inukshuk.

Igloo is a Snow House

The first time I saw an Igloo was at the Ottawa Winter Carnival back some time in the late sixties. The builders were Inuit but the material used was Styrofoam. A pre-cut set of blocks which linked together enabled people to see how these igloos were constructed.When I moved to the high Arctic I saw first hand how they could be made and used.I, myself learned the skill of building snow houses to great advantage. My friend Ikey showed me the rudiments of the skill.

The first thing is finding the right kind of snow. Inuit are able to walk over the snow and could tell if it was ok by the sound. A hollow sound indicates a snow somewhat the consistency of Styrofoam.Blocks are about 5-6 inches thick and vary in size to meet the proper fit. If you cut an orange in two and peel it from the cut side to the top you see the mode of required construction.

You need a snow knife, a handsaw will do and a cutting tool like a butcher knife for making small adjustments when the block is fitted to another. First pick a snow which is suitable. Mark the size you wish to build and cut blocks and place them outside the circle. Generally you have a third of the igloo built as you move all the snow out of the marked area.The first block is the most important as all others must fit and cause a ever higher level to the wall.The blocks are fitted with the help of the snow knife. Each block is cut to bring the wall upward and inward. You travel in a circle just as the peel of the orange. In no time your igloo is enclosing your space and the construction stops when only a small hole remains on top. This hole is shaped and a block is inserted to make a perfect enclosure. You then cut a small entrance hole for a doorway.

All the remaining snow inside the igloo is packed down and covered with hides of muskoxen or cariboo. The entrance is extended by building a small porch. Your belongings are brought inside and a primer stove provides heat to 30 degrees. I olden times and still used by some, a kullick is lit with wicks from Arctic Cotton and seal oil. Beds were made of snow and covered with hides for warmth.

Outside the dogs are placed on a line 6 feet apart and fed frozen fish. They will sleep under the snow and be comfortable.Today the dogs will not be present but a snow machine will take its place.A half igloo makes a good garage and I have built these to protect the white tents when camping out in winter.

The true test of a good igloo is to be able to stand on the top when completed. A 10 foot igloo, 7 feet high can be constructed in less than an hour. After the igloo is completed snow is thrown over the structure to give it that smooth look.

First Arctic Ice

Come September we get very heavy frost and low temperatures. Looking in my diary I see that on Sept 15 in 1995 the temperature was -34. I was about to try to get to my cabin by way of the river but the lack of snow made it hard on my Komitick so I decided to run up the lake instead. The ice was crystal clear and without snow it was very difficult to use the snowmobile.

It was fun to speed up and turn the machine a little and spin and spin. The weather rarely permits the ice to freeze so perfectly and all the people were out on the lake and skating and having a grand time. The ice would eventually be 9 feet thick but at this early stage it was about a foot thick. The children were lying on the ice and watching the Char swim below as clear as crystal. Some cut holes in the ice and were jigging for Char with great success.

Our hamlet was enjoying the four hours of sun before the 4 months of darkness. One family had a polar bear hide tied to the back of their snowmachine and were giving the kids a ride of their life. Boys and girls had their bikes and were travelling over the smooth surface with a skill I never mastered. Kids up here used their bikes all year and became proficient at travelling over smooth ice without incident. Sad to say that when pressure ridges occur and leads appear there are deaths from drowning as kids fall in the leads and drown. Every Inuit child is taught the dangers but every year there are deaths.

The sun started to go down and old tires were burned to provide light for skating. A merchant appeared with a small barbeque and muskoxen burgers were provided. The Hudson Bay Store and the Co-op were equally generous on occasions like this.This would be the last time the hamlet would celebrate on the ice until the spring. People lingered until the fire burned down and the burgers were finished. It was now -38 but the locals did not mind. It would be many months before we would have another get together on the ice. Remember this is the high Arctic and these folks were Inuit. Before all the people left the lake our renowned Drum Dancer offered a prayer and sang a drum song. Very moving and I thought spiritual.

Times Have Changed

Winter came early in 1996 in the far north. So early that the Coast Guard ship Nahida was iced in on September 8th. This large ship was responsible for marking the open water channels in the western North West Passage. Every year before freeze up this ship would travel along the coast and retrieve the navigation aids and store them at various stations to be used again the following year.

That year in i996 freeze up came nearly 3 weeks early. That may not seem like much but when you have an open water season 8 to 10 weeks it is a great problem. The ship and crew just made it to the government dock in time to tie up. The crew were flown back to Fort Smith, the usual home port for this coast guard ship.

The captain had a problem with security and tons of supplies. I met with the captain and made a contract to provide security for the Nahida and with a plan for the supplies. Together we unloaded the frozen food and decided that I would give these great gifts to needy Inuit and the HTA. The hunters and trappers association would use these frozen foods in their winter hunting program. Steaks, pork chops, shrimp and a variety of other meats and fish would supplement the diets of many people. The perishable goods such as potatoes and other vegetables were given to the Elders to use as they saw fit.

Overall the wintering of the Nahida was a special gift that year as our little hamlet Ikaluktutiak had a hard year and many people used this found treasure welcome. One event that was a huge success was the fall feast celebration to mark the winter darkness season. With the new found gift I though that it would make everyone happy.On the day of the feast the cooks prepared the roast beef and all the trimmings. Traditional country food was also available. The beef was not touched by Inuit until all the country food was used. The white people enjoyed the feast but in talking to my friends who were Inuit they told me that traditional feast of caribou, muskoxen, char and seal were the very best.

The wintering of the Nahida provided much needed interest and the locals would go to the dock and look at the great ship and discuss every aspect of its need to be with them . I went aboard with a small team every week to make sure all was well. Today the Nahida could have a month longer to get out on the NWP and get home safely with time to spare. Times have changed.

Pot Of Gold Under The Rainbow

The Arctic has suddenly become a focal point of interest for nations bordering that not so frozen ocean at the top of the world.Under the ice cap there are untold riches in the form of oil, gas and minerals. For centuries people thought that these riches were beyond the grasp of man as the costs of reaching them were prohibitive. Global warming has changed all that. What scientists predicted would take decades if not centuries to uncover the riches suddenly is happening in years.

Living in the high Arctic gave me a distinct advantage in seeing the warming effects and the many problems associated with these changes. It is 15 years since I set foot on the tundra and 6 years since I returned for a visit to fish and photograph my favourite places. Over such a short period how could there be major changes?

The changes effect the way of life of the hunter who is unable to have firm ice over which to travel to the hunting grounds. Shorter winters give wildlife such as polar bears less time on the ocean to catch seals so vital for their very existence. Animals previously unable to live in the harsh north are appearing. This includes birds and even large mammals such as the barron land grisly bear which now has a foothold on Victoria Island.

The longer summer means more thawing of the tundra to new depths and the permafrost melting and forming a muddy mixture which makes travel difficult and even impossible. This will only get worse as time passes. Shorter winters also means that winter roads so vital for the hauling of materials and fuel to feed the mining industry will be available for a shortened operating season.

I have not begun to touch the surface of the changes which will be evident very quickly but the rainbow of opportunity for a shipping season for large vessels and oil and gas development is about to cause major challenges in protecting the environment and the unique life style of the Inuit.

The Arctic land grab is about to unfold and there will be power struggles to grab all that is within reach of the powerful vested interests. How can we avoid the tragic mistakes that will surely come to be, such as the development of the tar sands? Hopefully the players who border the Arctic and its riches will form a pact to exploit the riches with a minimum of environmental stress on this last frontier of earth.

I am an optimist but I have little trust in big business to do the right thing in these matters. There must be a universal realization that a co-operative effort must be taken on behalf of all people and not just the business interests. We trust there will be enough good men and women to advocate sensible development.

Winter Comes Early In The Arctic

Around this time of the year the late fall turns into winter. There is no warning but the animals know. Late August the caribou migrate to the south shore of the North West Passage (NWP) and browse for some nutritious food. They wander almost in a daze with one thing in mind, get over the passage and head south on the mainland. I lived on Victoria Island , home to a huge herd of caribou.The caribou cross the 60 miles over the ice when it is strong enough. One year hundreds were lost when the tried to cross on bad ice. Their bodies were taken by the Inuit and used as dog food.

Muskoxen who live along the coast begin to move inland to unknown hid outs where they use their thick coats to keep warm and big feet to scrape away the snow and ice to find nourishing Arctic Willow. They disappear only to reappear in late June.

The ground or tundra becomes rock hard and ice freezes along with the puddles and small ponds. The Salt water of the NWP freezes quickly but heavy wind turns the ice into a messy mixture of ice clampers and pressure ridges.

The Mute Swans gather at Swan Lake near the passage and the young ones go off every day to test their wings. Anxious parents observe this time proven ritual and meet their youngsters with chatter as if to give encouragement and advice. Some scolding takes place when the fledglings act out. The swans wait for a heavy south wind to help start their journey on a high note.

The tell tale sign is the lack of sunshine. The sun quickly begins to fall further and further below the southern sky and the wind ,once friendly begins to bite and sting to remind you that winter is around the corner.

People bring out their warm clothes and mothers take extra time with their needles preparing mittens and coats for their children and hunters. I personally loved the winters with the low temperatures of -30 degrees Celsius was a warm day. My preparations were obvious and I checked the snow machine, updated my komitick (sled) and cleaned the rifles for winter use.

I still think of those days between summer and winter in the Arctic with warm feelings.